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今天上NCBI查詢一些資料,發現這一篇新的文章,特地節錄下來給大家參考!


這篇文章是發表在2007年2月的皮膚科學藥物雜誌,題目是『含有人類生長因子及細胞激素之皮膚乳霜對皮膚抗老化的效果』,這是關於生長因子運用在肌膚保養的最新文章,因為原文很長,我只摘錄一些重點跟大家分享,以下我就幫大家做介紹了。


 


Efficacy of novel skin cream containing mixture of human growth factors and cytokines for skin rejuvenation



Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Feb, 2007


 


Authors: Michael H. Gold, Mitchel P. Goldman, Julie Biron


 



 

The crucial role of growth factors and cytokines in cutaneous wound healing is well described, but there has been little investigation into their use for skin rejuvenation. A novel skin cream containing a mixture of human growth factors and cytokines was recently marketed for skin rejuvenation. The mixture was obtained through a biotechnology process using cultured human fetal skin cells, which originate from a dedicated cell bank originally established for the development of products in wound healing.


 


生長因子與細胞激素在皮膚損傷癒合的角色已經被許多研究證實,但是將生長因子應用在皮膚的抗老化保養上則還不是很普遍被研究。包含有許多人類生長因子與細胞激素的奇特乳霜最近在市場上被用來做為皮膚的抗老化使用。這個混合物是利用生物科技從培養的人類胎兒皮膚細胞獲得的,而這些培養的人類胎兒皮膚細胞是從作為傷口治療的預設細胞庫中選取出來的。



 


After 30 days, the mean in the periorbital wrinkle score decreased by 9%, whereas the mean in the perioral wrinkle score decreased by 8%. The wrinkle scores further improved after 60 days; the periorbital wrinkles decreased by 17% and the perioral wrinkles by 13%. Interestingly, the wrinkles further improved during the wash-out. After a 2-week period of not using the cream use, a decrease in the periorbital wrinkle score by 20% and in the perioral wrinkle score by 17% was observed.


 


經過30天每日兩次的使用,眼眶周圍的皺紋平均減少9%,而嘴角周圍皺紋平均減少8%。經過60天的使用後,眼眶周圍的皺紋平均減少17%,而嘴角周圍皺紋平均減少13%。有趣的是,經過兩週不再使用乳霜後再做檢視,發現眼眶周圍的皺紋平均減少更達到了20%,而嘴角周圍皺紋平均減少更達到17%。


 


The mean in the chin texture score decreased by 13% after 30 days, 17% after 60 days, and 18% after the wash-out. The mean in the cheek texture score also decreased by 9% after 30 days, 12% after 60 days, and 14% after the wash-out.


 



經過30天的使用,下巴膚質的改善達13%,而臉頰部位膚質改善達9%。經過60天的使用後,下巴膚質的改善達17%,而臉頰部位膚質改善達12%。即使經過兩週不再使用乳霜,下巴膚質還是會持續改善達18%,而臉頰部位膚質改善會達14%。



 


(下面這一段是大家之前所關心的皮膚穿透的問題)



To show efficacy for skin rejuvenation, growth factors and cytokines must penetrate skin in order to reach their target (ie, the respective cell surface receptor on keratinocytes or fibroblasts). However, proteins as large as growth factors and cytokines seem unlikely to penetrate skin. (18) On the other hand, various examples of protein contact allergies including latex imply that proteins indeed can penetrate intact skin after topical exposure, at least to a small extent. (19) This level of penetration is sufficient to induce an immediate allergic reaction. Similarly, due to the fact that growth factors and cytokines act at very low concentrations, they may penetrate normal skin in sufficient amounts to reach their respective cell surface receptors thereby inducing a response. Likely, these molecules may penetrate skin predominantly in a vertical pathway through the natural imperfection of skin such as 1) the follicular apparatus of hair follicles, 2) the sweat glands, and 3) microlesions in the interfollicular stratum corneum. (20)



 

這些生長因子及細胞激素的效果會出現必須能夠穿透皮膚到達他們作用的標的細胞,然而這些生長因子及細胞激素都是屬於大分子的蛋白質類成分,似乎不太可能穿透皮膚表層進入皮膚組織中。但是從另一個層面來說,許多的例子顯示蛋白質會引發一些接觸性過敏,這不也表示應該有足夠的蛋白質分子事實上是可以穿過完整的皮膚組織而造成立即性的過敏反應。相同地,在一些實例上,許多生長因子及細胞激素在非常低的濃度下仍然有作用,可能也是因為有部分的分子可以穿過正常的皮膚而作用在標的細胞。大致上,這些生長因子與細胞激素可以透過以下正常的皮膚缺口來穿越皮膚障蔽:1. 毛孔。2. 汗腺。3. 角質層毛孔間的一些微細損傷。


 


以上是我將這篇文章的一些重點摘錄下來,裡頭另外的一些數據,例如在病患的自我評估方面有50到80幾%以上的病患覺得自己的皺紋及膚質有改善等等,可能需要有興趣的人自行去參閱原文了。希望這篇文章能給那些對生長因子成分及保養品有興趣的朋友一個更新的資訊!


 


另外,不要過於相信那些動則高達70%,甚至90%神奇效果的宣傳術語了,正確的『實證醫學』是要提出完整的文獻資料來作說明,如果要使用一些毫無實證的廣告用語,我想這個領域是不會有所成長的!


 


Dr. Hsieh 2007.7.12 於高雄市



 
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